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2025 Herbs (end of season notes)

January 1, 2026 by Elisabeth

Basil wasn’t as robust this year, but still did well. Had stiff competition from large marigolds.
Chives all did well.
Chamomile came up fine this year.
Cilantro both crops produced well, but second crop needed to be seeded twice and infilled. Start second crop earlier (late June) when soil is cooler.
Lavender was replanted with 3 seedlings (offshoot from original woody plant, rooted cutting planted the previous fall and rooted cutting planted in spring). Fingers crossed for next year.
Lemon Balm did well, as always.
Lemongrass did well crowded into a less-than-perfect location in the herb border.
Lemon Verbena did well again in tomato bed.
Lovage wasn’t as tall and robust this year.
Marjoram did well, lovely seed heads. Tried to winter over plant indoors.
Mint both types (spearmint and peppermint) were just okay.
Parsley did great (again) this year.
Rosemary overwintered plant did well.
Sage did great (again) this year; pruned in spring and fall. Consider dividing and replanting in spring.
Savory (Summer) did well, but doesn’t last well as weather cools.
Savory (Winter) should be pruned in spring.
Sorrel should be divided and replanted in spring.
Stevia main seedling and rooted cutting did well.
Tarragon new plant still establishing.
Thyme tries to take over the garden; needed to cut back from saffron crocus in early fall. Consider dividing and replanting in spring.

Filed Under: Notes to the Future

2025 Legumes (end of season notes)

January 1, 2026 by Elisabeth

Bush Beans were underwhelming and didn’t last. Work on the soil in the perimeter beds for next year. Some seedlings clipped off by wildlife, covered with cages a bit late. Dragon Tongue did best, new purple and green varieties did poorly. Soil test shows deficiencies.
Fava Beans did well with decent harvest, but got aphids this year. Saved seed.
Lima Beans planted in terrible spot. Germinated well, but needed a dose of fertilizer (which is highly unusual) to bring back color mid-season. Harvest was underwhelming. Soil test shows deficiencies.
Peas Spring planting germination wasn’t as good as usual, but plants were productive, especially snow type (buy from that supplier again). Fall planting was a bust again, only a few tiny plants. Probably give up and grow something else in that space.
Pole Beans had many problems, resulting in meager harvests. Germination on Kentucky Blue was poor, Trionfo Violetto germinated well but failed to thrive, Garden of Eden seed didn’t arrive in time to plant. Tried planting black eyed peas but none germinated. Soil was tested at end of season and is likely responsible. Work on soil in perimeter beds.
Runner Beans germinated well but were stunted and not productive, probably because they’ve been planted in the same place 3 years running. Move to pea trellis or cycle them out next year.
Shell (3 Sisters) Beans grew Good Mother Stallard and Succotash. Succotash had poor germination and were reseeded. Consider trying new varieties?
Soybeans had a bad year. Poor germination despite new seed, plants were damaged by wildlife, none germinated in garden soil, plants didn’t thrive. Soil test shows deficiencies.

Filed Under: Notes to the Future

2025 Nightshades (end of season notes)

January 1, 2026 by Elisabeth

Eggplants didn’t thrive this year. Soil in back beds needs work. Possibly plant out seedlings a bit later to avoid cold. And grow a smaller variety of marigolds.
Ground Cherries did okay, but not as well as some years.
Pepper seedlings somehow got mixed up, so Santa Fe Grande didn’t get planted in garden. Grew 15 varieties this year, many of which were new. Started certain varieties earlier (Habanada, Criolla de Cocina, Aleppo, Aji Crystal, Super Chili) but it’s unclear that any matured earlier. Habanada were planted out early, struggled, recovered, and matured very late. Shishito was overrun by a large marigold. Aji Crystal was productive, but not as good as Hot Lemon. Round of Hungary failed due to insect damage. Aleppo was productive, but didn’t turn red. Goddess looked too much like Aji Crystal, so caused confusion. New Serrano variety did well, and is large! Cheyenne and Corno di Toro did great. Both bell types and Criolla de Cocina did ok. Sprayed with Neem oil, but should have started earlier; start as soon as fruit appears next year. Grow smaller marigold variety.
Tomatillos new larger variety did great, grow again.
Tomatoes had a bad year. The plants struggled and several had black spot. Also, seedlings somehow got mixed up. Try growing fewer varieties (<15) and possibly try an Earth Box. Try adding way more fertilizer to the bed when planting seedlings and wait to begin top dressing with fertilizer until later in season. Establish a deep watering schedule twice a week. Begin sterilizing string and anchors each spring. Soil checked for deficiencies at end of season, could account for at least some of the problems.

Filed Under: Notes to the Future

2025 Root Crops (end of season notes)

January 1, 2026 by Elisabeth

Beets regular crop did great. Second crop attempted at edge of summer squash bed failed. Consider starting second crop indoors and planting instead of fall peas in perimeter bed.
Daikon were not exceptional. Make sure they are fed and thinned.
Jerusalem Artichokes were replanted sparsely from bought tubers in spring. Grew well and produced excellent tubers. Replanted sparsely in fall. Looking good!
Potatoes grew Carola and Adirondack Blue overwintered from Hutchins, Purple Viking from Fedco. Carola and Adirondack Blue more productive. Grow all varieties from kept-over tubers (don’t select just small ones) from Hutchins next year. Research causes of scab.
Radishes planted in rows early in sweet potato bed worked well. Late crop should be planted all at the same time; last planting didn’t have time to mature.
Rutabagas did well, though some didn’t reach good size. Thinning was good this year. Feed more?
Salad Turnips 1st crop did well. 2nd crop should all be planted at same time; last planting didn’t have time to mature.
Specialty Radishes (Wasabi and Pusa Jamuni) were marginal due to inadequate thinning and late planting date. Varieties good.
Sweet Potatoes did well this year. Purple variety needed to be under lights to sprout slips. Dug them in time not to lose any to the wildlife.
Turnips were slow and not as vigorous as usual. Make sure to fertilize and thin.

Filed Under: Notes to the Future

2025 Squash Family (end of season notes)

January 1, 2026 by Elisabeth

General notes: Squash Vine Borers were a problem in all but the butternut, Honeynut, and Seminole plants. Used Serenade at least twice; should set up a regular schedule next year. Fine mesh bags on squashes was very effective in deterring wildlife; definitely do again! 
Cucumbers both varieties were productive this year, with the plants hanging on into October. Maybe radish planting was helpful. Experiment with growing a few in isolated spots in other perimeter beds where they can climb.
Pumpkins had their usual short harvest season of 3 weeks, producing 5 from 5 plants, with heavy Squash Vine Borer damage.
Watermelon varieties did well and wereindistinguishable from each other, produced 4 from 4 plants.
Winter Squashes: regular butternut variety produced 16 from 12 plants, Honeynut variety produced 16 from 5 plants! New varieties: Red Kuri Hubbard produced 5 from 5 plants, Mambo kabocha produced 4 from 4 plants, and Seminole produced 2-3 (1 disappeared) from 3 plants.
Zucchini varieties good with a long (14-15 week) harvest window. Dunja produced 34 and Long White of Palermo produced 19, both from 12 plants. Reserve some spots for the 2nd planting in the main 1st planting bed next year.

Filed Under: Notes to the Future

2025 Soil tests

December 31, 2025 by Nathan

At the end of the 2025 season, soil from four beds was sampled and sent to the UMass extension for analysis. (Thanks, Mike!) These are the reports:

  • Bed A (peas, pole beans) S251117-108
  • Beds B-C (eggplants, fava beans, cucumbers, squashes, watermelons) S251117-109
  • Bed D (bush beans, soybeans) S251117-110
  • Bed 1 (tomatoes) S251117-112

A guide on how to interpret the results is here. There are other references at the end of the reports.

Soil organic matter ranged from 4.8% to 5.4%, which is fine, even in the “new” perimeter beds. Salt and lead content were all low. We did not order the extra test for nitrogen, but we know we always need to add nitrogen, mainly fertilizer and manure.

pH in all the beds was 6.1-6.5, which is a little on the low side for crops that like sweeter soil, like the brassicas. Reference here. Potatoes however prefer a lower pH, ideally 5-5.5, so we should never lime that bed. (High pH promotes scab.) It would be good to have a reliable pH tester at the garden so we could tweak the pH for each specific crop.

The magnesium level was high in all the beds except A. Both dolomitic limestone and wood ash add magnesium to the soil, so we should not use dolomite limestone and be careful using wood ash. High magnesium can disrupt the absorption of other nutrients.

In all the beds except B-C, the potassium level was low or very low, so it’s likely the garden is generally a bit deficient, and might explain the poor performance of the tomatoes and beans. A good organic source for potassium is wood ash, but it must be used with caution because it can raise pH rapidly and can be caustic. We should never add wood ash where potatoes are to be grown. This article recommends using 1/4 to 1/2 cup of wood ash per tomato plant, but more research should be done.

Each report includes a recommendation for adding lime (to raise the pH a little), nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. They are all close enough that we can probably apply them across all the beds. A general application of wood ash would raise the pH and potassium, so should be good for all the beds except where the potatoes are going. If we are concerned about the high magnesium, we could apply only non-dolomitic limestone and elemental potassium (potash) instead of wood ash. Without testing every bed and knowing the exact preference of each crop planted in it each year, it’s impossible to fine tune the soil improvement.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

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